Installing wood flooring

But upgrading to hardwood floors is expensive, even if you do it yourself. And the final cost is usually much more than the square-foot price that’s advertised. If you’ve tried to calculate how much wood floors will cost based on the ads in the paper, you’re in for a shock.

Of course, prices vary by region, but if you take a few things into account, you should be able to make an educated guess about how much it will cost to upgrade to wood flooring. Once you have an idea, you’ll know whether it’s worth your time to start shopping or not.

Bear in mind that, unlike carpeting, wood floors will last for generations if properly cared for. So you’ll be amortizing the investment over many years. And many flooring companies offer interest-free financing for 12 months and other payment options. They realize that wood flooring is a big purchase that many customers may want help with.

The square-foot price of the wood is just the start. In addition to that, there are other supplies and labor, which will vary based on how the floor is installed.

Wood flooring supply costs.

If you’re lucky enough to have a wood sub floor, you won’t need anything more but some felt paper and some nails or staples. If you’re having your floor installed, these will usually be included in the price of labor. If you’re doing it yourself, figure around $50 for a box of 7,000 staples and ten cents per square foot for the felt paper.

The cost of renting a stapler or nail gun is usually pretty reasonable.

Those without a wood sub floor will incur some additional expense, especially if the floor is to be floated. An underlayment, which can run from 25 cents to $1.50 per square foot will be needed to cushion and insulate the new flooring.

Wood flooring installation

If you have concrete floors, you’ll probably want to use engineered wood flooring that can be glued down. The cost of glue runs from 50 cents to $1.00 per square foot. To be on the safe side, add $1.00 to the price of the wood. Gluing wood flooring often takes longer than nailing it down, so your labor costs may be higher too.

Moisture protection, which is often needed with concrete floors, can add another $1 to $2 per square foot to the cost.

In addition to the floor boards, you’ll need to buy some trim to finish off the floor. If you want quarter-round molding in the same wood and finish as the flooring, this can run as much as $5 a lineal foot. Because there’s waste, it takes more than you think. Your flooring company can help you calculate how much you’ll need.

Wood flooring labor costs.

The cost to install your floor can vary a lot depending on where you live, who installs the floor, and how difficult or easy your specific situation is. If you’re having a full-service dealer install your wood flooring, figure between $2 – $4 a square foot.

The price should include having the wood delivered to your home and stacked, removing the existing flooring, prepping the sub floor, installing the flooring, installing all the trim, cleaning up, and hauling away all the debris. Most installers will move your furniture out and back in once as part of the installation process.

All in, a good-quality, pre-finished wood floor will probably cost between $8 and $12 per square foot, or about $1,200 – $1,800 for a 12’ x 12’ room installed. Bamboo or laminate wood flooring will cost less. Premium hardwoods like cherry will cost more.

Before making a commitment, make sure everything is spelled out in writing so there are no unpleasant surprises.

Reducing the cost of wood flooring.

Buying the wood and getting it to your home yourself will bring down the price, and paying cash will sometimes save you another 2 or 3%. Using inexpensive pine molding and adhesive or staples from your local home store will bring the cost down even more. And installing it on your own will probably get the price to about $6 or $7 a square foot, depending on the flooring, where you live, and the competition in your area.

Learn how to install wood flooring here.

Installing wood flooring Image Flickr: j2davis2005
Wood flooring installation Image Flickr: Steve & Jan Cornwell

American cherry is sought after for its warm, rich color, which ranges from pinkish brown to deep red. As a fruit tree, it’s a member of the rose family, and it grows all over the United States and Canada. In colonial America, cherry was used for fine furniture, inlays, and paneling. Today, it’s a very popular choice for kitchen cabinets, and Shaker-style furniture.

One of the best things about American cherry is the way the color deepens with age. Over the years, it develops a gorgeous patina that polishes beautifully. It has a fine, straight grain.

With a hardness of 950 on the Janka hardness scale, American cherry is softer than many of the most popular woods used for flooring. Red oak, for example, has a hardness of 1290. Consequently, it’s a poor choice for high-traffic areas, commercial settings, or homes with dogs. It’s often used as an accent wood around the edges of a floor where there’s less wear and tear.

It’s also more expensive than other wood flooring options, so before you buy American cherry, make sure it’s an appropriate choice for your room.

Due to its reddish color, Jatoba is often called Brazilian cherry. It grows mostly in Brazil, Chile, the West Indies, and parts of Mexico. The principle difference between Jatoba and American cherry is the hardness. Jatoba measures 2350 on the Janka scale — more than 80% harder than red oak.

This makes Jatoba a better choice for wood flooring in rooms that will receive an average amount of traffic. Like American cherry, it will darken over time, especially if it’s exposed to direct sunlight. The finish that’s used will also affect this process.

Because of it extraordinary hardness, Jatoba is difficult to work with, so it’s a poor choice for do-it-yourselfers. Unless you’re a seasoned woodworker, you’ll likely get better results if you hire a professional to install jatoba wood flooring.

If you can afford it and plan to use it in a room that receives little traffic, real cherry wood will produce a look that’s unsurpassed in its elegance and sophistication. If you want the appearance of cherry with greater durability and affordability, choose jatoba.

Read about walnut wood flooring here.

Although many people assume that solid wood flooring is the best you can buy, that may or may not be true, depending on a number of factors.

First of all, let’s explain what engineered wood flooring is. It’s made by sandwiching together several layers, usually a veneer, a core, and a base. The veneer or top layer is the one you see and it can vary in thickness. Generally speaking, the thicker, the better.

One of the advantages of engineered wood flooring is that it’s easier to install than solid wood flooring. It can be glued down – which is essential if you have concrete sub floors – stapled, or floated. And it’s easier to saw and nail than many solid woods. If you want to install your floors yourself, they’re your best bet.

It can even be installed over tile or vinyl, as long as it’s clean and level. Check to make sure the moisture level is less than 4% first.

Because the grain of the core is perpendicular to the grain of the veneer, it’s actually more stable than solid hardwood. It warps less and is better suited to homes in high-humidity zones or for summer homes that are unheated in winter.

The best thing about solid wood is that if it gets worn, it can be sanded down and refinished. But people forget that even though the wood is ¾” thick, it can only be sanded down to the bottom of the tongue on the side of the plank. In most cases, that’s only about 5/16” thick.

An engineered wood floor with a veneer of 3/16” can usually be sanded three or four times. It should have a lifespan of 60 to 80 years.

Most engineered flooring comes pre-finished, which eliminates all the hassle of sanding and finishing your floors after they’re installed. With 3 -10 layers of urethane already applied, they’ll look good for years with proper care.

These days, you can find engineered wood flooring in virtually every wood, color, and finish. Even hand-scraped and distressed styles are available.

As a rule, engineered wood floors are less expensive than solid wood floors. But if you sell your home, prospective buyers will pay the same price. This is not true for laminate floors which don’t look like real wood.

Another benefit is that they’re environmentally responsible. The wood required to produce one square foot of solid wood flooring will yield approximately four times as much engineered product.

Read about other kinds of wood flooring.

Hardwood floors can last for decades, even centuries, under the right circumstances. Or they can need refinishing – or worse yet, replacing – in a relatively short period of time. So how can you make sure that the wood flooring you choose will provide beauty and utility for years to come?

Although virtually all wood will scratch, some wood is much more resistant to scratching and other wear. One of the most important aspects determining wear is the hardness of the wood.

Wood hardness is evaluated using a measurement called the Janka Scale. It measures how much force it takes to press a .444” steel ball into the wood until it reaches half its diameter.

This calculation translates into a number that represents the pounds per square inch of force required to embed the ball. Most often, the ball is pushed into the side of the plank, resulting in a measurement of the “side hardness.” But sometimes, the end of the wood is also tested. The result of this measurement would be “end hardness,” which is obviously less important for wood flooring.

The results are expressed differently in different countries, so if you’re comparing results, make sure they’re all stated the same way.

The higher the number, the greater the wood’s ability to resist dents and other wear. It also indicated how hard the wood will be to saw and nail. Some wood that would be great in terms of wear would be very difficult to install. So if you’ve chosen extremely hard wood for your floors, you may want to leave the installation to a professional.

There are several other factors that affect wear, especially if you’re using engineered wood flooring. The thickness of the top layer, the material used in the core, and the direction of the grain will all make a difference.

The more traffic you expect in a room, the higher the Janka rating you should consider. With a Janka score of 690, Southern Yellow Pine is not a great choice for high-wear areas. A high-heeled shoe, dog paw, or pebble stuck in a sole could easily damage a pine floor.

Red Oak, the most popular American wood flooring, has a Janka score of 1290. And it’s durable enough to work well in most situations. If you need something more wear resistant, hard maple scores 1450. It’s used for basketball courts and bowling alleys. Santos Mahogany scores 2200; Brazilian Cherry scores 2345; and Brazilian Walnut scores 3680.

Although there are exceptions, the harder woods are often more expensive.

Understanding the Janka Scale and the importance of hardness in wood flooring will help you select a floor that performs beautifully in your home.

Read more about hardwoods here.

Most of the reclaimed boards that are used in wood flooring today are over 100 years old and were originally used in barns, farmhouses, and other construction in American northeast and midwest.  Typically, timber flooring planks are wider than most of today’s flooring.  In fact, widths of 10″, 12” and even wider are common.

Around the turn of the 20th century, builders weren’t often choosing lumber for its appearance.  So not much first grade or clear wood was used for flooring. As a result, these old boards have lots of imperfections like knots , cracks, and uneven or coarse grains.  This is all part of what makes timber floors one of a kind.  No two boards are alike.

Because wood is a sustainable product and reclaimed wood is recycled from a previous use, timber flooring is also ecologically responsible.

The most common reclaimed woods are red and white oak — still the most popular woods for flooring today.  Oak is hard, even grained, and works well in almost any situation.  Because it’s readily available, it also has the advantage of being more affordable than some other species.

Not all reclaimed flooring is hardwood.  In fact, softwoods like eastern white pine, hemlock, and Douglas fir make beautiful wood floors, those are less durable than hardwoods.  The color ranges from light to dark brown, and older boards have a rich patina.  These make especially popular timber floors for kitchens and family rooms.

Although it’s technically a softwood, heart pine is almost as soft as oak. In fact, it’s the hardest softwood.  There are usually lots of knots and coarse grain.  And the pale, golden color sets off furniture and area rugs.  It was originally used in docks and warehouses, so it’s quite rustic and creates an informal, casual room.

One of the most widely planted share trees after the Civil War, the American elm is pale with a tight, straight grain.  Most of the trees were wiped out by Dutch Elm Disease, so supply of Elm is limited.  But it makes a less rustic timber floor than most other reclaimed woods.

If you can find it, old chestnut is one of the most desirable reclaimed wood for timber flooring.  A fungal blight in the early 20th century wiped out American chestnut, so the supply is scarce.  Not only is chestnut extremely durable, it has a rich, dark color that only comes with age.

Several small lumber and flooring companies sell timber flooring.  If you can’t see the actual boards before you purchase them, be prepared for the color and texture to be different from the samples in the showroom.

Read more about antique oak flooring here.

Typically, three coats — a sealer and two coats of finish — are used.

There are two main types of finishes for wood flooring — surface finishes and penetrating finishes.  And both have their advantages and disadvantages.  So before choosing one, figure out what best suits your needs.

Surface finishes for wood floors.

Today, most surface finishes are a blend of synthetic resins like urethane or polyurethane.  They form a protective coating that’s durable, water resistant and easy to maintain.

There are three varieties of urethane used to finish wood floors.  Water-based urethane is a relatively new product that’s sometimes mixed with a catalyst before it’s applied.  Water-based finishes dry more quickly than oil-modified urethane, which requires fewer coats.  And they’re less toxic than some other finishes.

But oil-modified urethane yellows with age and takes a while to dry.  Some people like the amber glow that older oil-modified urethane floors develop.

The third type of urethane, moisture-cured, dries quickly and is the most durable, but it‘s hard to apply.  Do-it-yourselfers should avoid moisture-cured urethane.

Polyurethane is extremely durable and stain resistant.  In fact, most basketball courts are finished with it.  It’s also less expensive than other finishes.

The other popular surface finish is conversion varnish.  Floors finished with conversion varnish are often referred to as Swedish finish hardwood floors.  Since it requires no waxing or buffing, a Swedish finish is very low maintenance.  And it’s almost as durable as polyurethane.

Because the varnish is flammable and contains formaldehyde, it’s restricted to professionals.  And you’ll probably need to vacate your home for a couple of days.  You may also need to air the house out once you move back in because the odor is quite strong.

A Swedish finish takes a long time to cure, so you should keep rugs off your floors for 60 days.  But once it’s cured, it’s one of the most attractive finishes for wood flooring.

Penetrating sealers for hardwood floors.

These solvent-based finished are applied to the wood flooring and then left on to penetrate the wood.  Then the excess is either buffed in or wiped off.  When color is added, penetrating finishes can also be used to stain the wood.

Many penetrating finishes contain tung or linseed oil and additives that promote hardness.   If there’s any damage to the floor, this finish is easy to repair.  Just rub on another coat.

Paste wax is one of the most popular choices because it’s easy to apply, inexpensive, and it lasts forever.  Thin coats of wax are applied to the wood floor, allowed to dry, and then buffed to a matte or satin sheen.

Choosing the right sheen for your wood flooring.

Most finishes are available in high gloss, semi gloss, satin, or matte.  Glossy finishes are harder to maintain and they show scratches and imperfections more.  Satin finishes are easier to keep looking good.

But if you want something out of the ordinary, and you’re willing to pay for it, exotic hardwoods from Brazil, Asia, Africa, or Australia can create a dramatic, distinctive room that’s one of a kind.

Jatoba.  Also known as Brazilian cherry, Jatoba is one of the most popular exotic hardwoods.  It comes from Mexico, Central America, and other South American countries, as well as Brazil.  The reddish brown color eventually develops a rich, golden luster.  And the dense, interlocking grain makes it very stable.  Almost twice as hard as red oak, Jatoba is one of the most scratch-resistant hardwoods.

Mahogany.  Grown from Mexico to Argentina, mahogany features a fine, even texture, a dark, reddish-brown color, and an interlocking grain.  Santos mahogany is extremely hard, and it creates a sophisticated, rich looking floor.

Teak.  This Indonesian hardwood has a beautiful golden hue that’s rich and warm.  It’s not as hard as other species, but it is very resistant to termites, fungus, and decay.  The wavy grain is fairly coarse and the texture is rough.  Since much of the old-growth teak has already been harvested, teak is more expensive than it used to be.

Tigerwood.  Grown mostly in South America, tigerwood features a distinctive, wavy grain that resembles the stripes of a tiger.  The reddish-orange color makes a real statement.  And tigerwood is extremely hard.  It’s also very resistant to beetles and other pests.

Merbau.  Native to the Philippines and Indonesia, Merbau darkens to a beautiful, rich brown. The grain can be straight, wavy, or interlocked.  Yellow flecks in the pores make Merbau look like it’s been dusted with gold.  It’s very stable, and resistant to termites and other pests.

Wenge.  This African wood has become more popular in the last few years.  Aged wenge is nearly black, and it can be used to very dramatic effect.  Extremely hard, it’s ideal for high traffic areas, but it does show dust, lint, and blonde pet hair.

Sapele.  Lustrous and finely textured, Sapele has an interlocking, wavy grain.  Most of it comes from Africa, and it wears well once installed.  But loose boards can warp if not stored correctly.

Zebrawood.  If you want a truly unique wood floor, zebrawood has dramatic stripes that are enhanced by quarter sawing.  Color ranges from straw to brown with stripes that are nearly black.  Zebrawood is hard, lustrous, and termite resistant.

Wood flooring is easy to care for, and it holds its value over the years.  In fact, real estate agents say that homes with wood floors sell faster and sell for more.

It’s made from a renewable resource — in fact, some wood flooring is recycled from old ships and barns.  And it’s better for people with allergies than carpeting.

There are hundreds of kinds of wood available.   Most come in three grades:

1) Clear or First Grade.  This wood has no visible defects, such as knots, and no variations in color.

2) Select or Second Grade.  May have a few imperfections like some dark grains or knots, and some other minor variations.

3) Rustic or Third Grade.  Inconsistent.  Variations in color and grain, and lots of knots and other imperfections.

The most popular domestic hardwoods.

It may surprise you to know that the term hardwood doesn’t really have anything to do with the hardness of the wood.  In fact, one of the softest woods around, balsa, is a hardwood.  And yew, which is pretty hard, is actually a softwood.

Softwood comes from coniferous trees (those that bear cones).  And hardwood comes from broad-leafed, angiosperm trees.

Domestic hardwoods used for wood flooring are:

Red Oak.  With its strong open grain, neutral color, and solid durability, red oak is a great choice for many different environments.  The color blends well with lighter and darker woods — it looks great with mahogany furniture.  And it works well in casual or sophisticated settings.  More than 50% of all hardwood floors are red oak.

White Oak.  The tighter, less pronounced grain of white oak is extremely straight.  And it’s lovely enough for formal rooms.  The lighter color fades a little less than red oak, and it creates a light, airy room.

Maple.  Harder than oak, maple is extremely scratch and dent resistant.   That’s why it’s the first pick for bowling alleys, basketball courts, and Fender guitar necks.  The tight, even grain is lovely.  And First Grade Maple, which comes only from sapwood, has a beautiful, pale color.  It will make any room seem larger.

Black Walnut. If you want a dark floor with a lovely, curly grain, walnut is a good option.  It’s not as hard as oak, so it will scratch more easily.  Consequently, it isn’t a great choice if you have a dog over 50 pounds.  But it can help to create a very dramatic room.  Speaking of dogs, if your blonde dog sheds, the hair will be visible on Black Walnut.

Ash.  Similar in appearance to oak, ash is attractive and durable.  So much so that it’s the first choice for Louisville Sluggers.  The color ranges from white to brown.  And the bold grain is sometimes wavy.

Beech.  Very close to oak in hardness, beech has a straight, closed grain and a smooth finish.  The sapwood is very pale and the heartwood is a reddish brown.

American Cherry.  One of the most beautiful domestic hardwoods, American Cherry takes on a rich glow when finished properly.  The color, which ranges from pale to a warm, reddish brown, creates a rich, sophisticated look that says quality.

Any of these woods will give you beautiful wood floors that will enhance the appearance and value of your home, and last for generations.

]]> http://woodflooringguide.net/the-best-domestic-hardwoods-for-wood-flooring/feed/ 0 http://woodflooringguide.net/how-to-care-for-your-wood-flooring-and-keep-it-looking-great/ http://woodflooringguide.net/how-to-care-for-your-wood-flooring-and-keep-it-looking-great/#comments Tue, 10 Nov 2009 00:52:14 +0000 John Beck http://woodflooringguide.net/?p=11 One of the best things about wood floors is that they’re durable and easy to maintain.  Unlike carpeting that will show every bit of mud that’s tracked in, wood flooring is extremely forgiving.  In fact, there aren’t a lot of things that can mar its appearance.

But there are a few simple steps you should take to extend the life of your wood floors and maintain their beauty.

Prevent damage from happening.

Water is especially damaging to wood floors and their finish, so use doormats outside and throw rugs inside your exterior doors, in front of your kitchen sink, and in the bathroom.  Wipe up any spills quickly, don’t wet mop your floors, and make sure there are no leaks under your potted plants.

Doormats will also help reduce the amount of dirt, grit, and sand that gets tracked in.  Shake our your doormats and vacuum your area rugs often.

To prevent scratches and dents, put fabric or soft plastic glides under the feet of your furniture.  And don’t slide heavy furniture across your wood flooring.  Pick it up and carry it.

Use the brush attachment when you vacuum, not the beater bars, and protect your wood flooring from direct sunlight.  Protect your floors with window treatments, and rotate your rugs and furniture so your floors are evenly exposed.

Also, be careful what kind of shoes your family and guests wear on your wood floors.  High heels, cleats, and athletic shoes can leave scratches.  And so can your dog’s claws.

If you use your heater or air conditioner a lot, a humidifier or dehumidifier may be needed to help ensure your wood flooring has enough moisture.  This will reduce cracks caused from drying.

Keep your wood floors looking their best.

Caring for wood floors is easy and inexpensive.

Don’t use products designed for other types of flooring on your wood floors.  Waxes and polishes can make your floors slippery, and oil-based soaps can build up and dull the finish.  Only use the cleaning products your floor’s manufacturer recommends.  Never use ammonia.

A good, cotton dust mop or soft-bristled broom can be used to remove most of the dirt or grit.  You can spray your mop the day before with a mist that attracts dust.  Or use a Swiffer or micro fiber mop, which also does a good job of attracting pet hair.

If the edges of your wood strips or planks have a bevel, you’ll need to use your vacuum to reach any particles that are between the boards.

Usually, that’s all that’s needed to clean your floors, but if you do have scuff marks or stains, rub the spot in a circular motion with recommended floor cleaner.

Following these easy tips will keep your wood floors looking beautiful for years to come.

Because wood flooring is easy to care for and doesn’t show dirt or stain like carpeting, it’s a good choice for families with children and pets.

When you first start shopping for wood flooring, you may be overwhelmed by the choices.  But there are basically just three types of wood floors.  The type that’s best for you will depend on a number of factors, including where the floor will be installed and how much traffic it will get.

Solid wood flooring.

As the name implies, solid wood flooring is made from pieces of wood that are between 1/4″ and 1″ thick.  As a rule, the tongue-and-groove boards fit together and are installed by nailing them to a sub floor of 3/4″ plywood.  For this reason, solid wood floors can’t usually be used over concrete slabs.

Building a sub floor to use over concrete essentially doubles the cost of using solid wood.  So if you have a concrete floor, you’re better off with an engineered wood floor.

Because solid wood expands and contracts with variations in moisture and temperature, it’s also unsuitable for areas where those conditions fluctuate dramatically.

You can choose from a wide assortment of solid woods, stains, and finishes.  Or you can buy your flooring unfinished and having it finished after it’s installed.  This is ideal if you’re trying to match a pre-existing floor.  But it’s a messy process and not everyone will be want to put up with the noise and dust.

Because there is usually 1/4″ or more of wood above the tongue and groove, solid wood floors can be sanded down and refinished.  If you have lots of traffic or large dogs, solid wood flooring are a great choice.

Engineered wood flooring.

This kind of flooring is made of several layers — or plys — that are laminated together.  Usually a base, a core, and a veneer.  The top layer or veneer varies in thickness.  But for the best wear, it should be at least 3/16th of an inch thick.

Veneers of 1/8″ or less are usually rotary peeled.  Thicker veneers are sawed and look more like solid wood.  Veneers of 5/16th can usually be sanded.

The grain on the plys in engineered wood run in different directions, which makes the flooring more stable.  Engineered wood flooring won’t warp, and because it can be glued, stapled or floated, it can be used almost anywhere.

Most engineered floors come prefinished with 3 – 10 layers of urethane.  But a huge selection of finishes is available.  If your sub floor is a concrete slab, engineered wood will cost you about half as much as solid wood.

Acrylic-impregnated wood flooring.

Better known by the brand name Pergo, acrylic-impregnated wood floors are extremely durable.  In fact, they’re 300% harder than natural wood.  Liquid acrylic, stain, and fire retardants are injected into the wood and then it’s cured.

Because impregnated wood is water resistant, it’s often used in kitchens and bathrooms.  And because the color goes all the way through, it’s ideal in commercial setting like restaurants, where there’s lots of traffic and wear.  In fact, scratches are barely detectable.

Many people don’t like the look of acrylic-impregnated wood floors, but they are the best choice if you want the appearance of wood but need a more durable floor.